Here it is, bitches. Since it seems I'm motivated again, I'm retooling my 350 for Morvahna. Yes, I understand that Morvi might not be the most competitive at 350 points, but I think this list will handle a lot and come back for more. These also include a lot of models that have a place in my heart and/or really deserve paint jobs because of their performances.
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^Morvahna the Autumnblade
Gnarlhorn Satyr
*Woldwyrd
Wolves of Orboros (6)
Wolves of Orboros Officer and Standard Bearer
Professor Viktor Pendrake
*Swamp Gobber Bellows Crew
-Army Points: 346/350
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The star denotes finished models. The little chevron denotes model(s)-in-progress. I'm cheating a little, but I'll be painting my entire unit of WoO with the UA, so there. :P
So who's with me? Lincoln, I'm looking at you!!! Challenge time! Trade Rob for Khador and let's do this...
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Monday, February 16, 2009
Morvahna in Ocean Blues
On to Morvahna. After my successes with my Swamp Gobs, I'm keeping up the momentum, loving the color scheme, and applying both to my favorite warlock.
Base Coat
*Skin - finding the right skin tone has been a challenge for me, but I think I like this one. It's a 50/50 blend of VMC Cork Brown and VGC Elf Skintone. It's even, it's healthy, it's youthful. Multiple layers, thinned with my normal mixture, is key.
*Cloak - on less important models, the deep blue-green color will be less pronounced. On Morvi, it's front and center. The entire cloak is painted in a nice even coat of RMS Deep Ocean.
*Clothing - keeping with blackclad theme, Morvi's long skirt and sleeves are painted in VMC Black Grey. I've painted all the jewelry and stones this color too, just to make detailing easier later.
*Under-corset - to drop the greys in there, this subtle bit of cloth, sticking out from under her armored corset, is coated in a layer of VMC London Grey.
*Hair - hair is going to be a rich series of browns with red highlights. So to start, we need a nice deep warm brown. VGC Charred Brown is layered on and into the whorls and curls.
*Metals - the corset, sword hilt and pommel, the disk-shaped cloak pin, and the crown are all painted with VMC Bronze. Later, the metal woven into her hair will be detailed with the same color.
*Sword Blade - this is easy; a nice even coat of a 50/50 mix of VMC Oily Steel and VMC Silver. Again, multiple thin layers are best. Later this will be highlighted up to a brightly honed steel.
Shading
*Wash Morvahna's hair and black clothing with P3 Armor Wash.
*Wash her cloak with the original color & VMC Matte Medium & P3 Coal Black.
*Once dry, wash the cloak again with more P3 Coal Black. Focus on recesses.
*The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium.
*The silver metals wash with GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium.
*Once dry, follow with a deep recess wash on all metals with P3 Armor Wash.
*The shirt under her corset gets a wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The deepest recesses of the cloak get a very thin wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The skins get a wash of GW Devlan Mud thinned with water and VMC Matte Medium.
Highlighting
*Begin by reclaiming the original color on the black clothing. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
*Reclaim the color on the shirt under the corset. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a light grey. Highlight the edges in almost pure RMS Leather White.
*Lightly reclaim the brass areas on her corset, sword, head piece, and medallion. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a further highlight. Do a final highlight with the base and RMS Polished Silver.
*Reclaim the silver on the sword. Then use the base color mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a highlight. Mix in RMS Polished Silver for a final highlight.
...after over a two-month hiatus, I return...
*Paint the lip of the base with P3 Thamar Black. Paint the inside of the base with VGC Charred Brown. Now's a good time because I'm starting on the cloak soon, and I don't want to be painting brown near it after it's done.
*Reclaim the brown color (since I had it ready from above) on the hair with a light dry brushing to hit the high points. Add a drop of GAFA Burnt Sienna to the mix and highlight some more. Keep adding and highlighting. Add a little P3 Moldy Ochre for the highest edge. Then wash entire head in GW Red Ink. Then GW Devlan Mud. Then reclaim the burnt sienna/ochre hightlights on the upper light-hitting edges.
*Using a two-brush wet blending approach, highlight the upper areas of the cloak with straight RMS Deep Ocean, pulling the color down into the darker areas. After that dries, do the same on a smaller area with a 5:1 mix of RMS Deep Ocean and RMS Leather White. Proceed to a 5:2 mix. Then a 1:1 mix for the extreme edges. Then, to smooth it all out, wash the entire cloak with P3 Turquoise Ink and water in very thin layers.
*Reclaim the skin by using the original color. After that dries, begin highlighting with a 5:1 mix of the original color base and RMS Creamy Ivory. Proceed to a 5:2 mix, on smaller areas. That should be enough, but a 1:1 mix wouldn't hurt for extreme highlights. She's gonna be pale, folks. Use a bit of GW Devlan Mud to smooth transitions and reclaim any over-highlighted areas.
Detailing
*Paint the little curls on her cheeks with straight GAFA Burnt Sienna. Paint her lips and nails with a 1:2 mix of VMC Black Red and VMC Brown Rose. Highlight the lower lip with straight VMC Brown Rose.
*Paint the eyes standard. Black, then white, then black.
*Paint the hair "trap" with VMC Bronze, then a layer of 1:1 VMC Bronze and RMS Honed Steel.
*Create a glaze with 2:1:5 of VMC Black Red, VMC Brown Rose, and VGC Glaze Medium. Carefully paint this onto the upper eye lid, up to where the eyebrow will be. Use a 2:1 mix of VGC Charred Brown and GAFA Burnt Sienna and carefully trace the model's brow ridges.
*Basecoat all the stones hanging from her wrists and across her legs with GW Foundation Charadon Granite.
Basing
*Standard Circle basing scheme.
Total time: ~12 hrs
Base Coat
*Skin - finding the right skin tone has been a challenge for me, but I think I like this one. It's a 50/50 blend of VMC Cork Brown and VGC Elf Skintone. It's even, it's healthy, it's youthful. Multiple layers, thinned with my normal mixture, is key.
*Cloak - on less important models, the deep blue-green color will be less pronounced. On Morvi, it's front and center. The entire cloak is painted in a nice even coat of RMS Deep Ocean.
*Clothing - keeping with blackclad theme, Morvi's long skirt and sleeves are painted in VMC Black Grey. I've painted all the jewelry and stones this color too, just to make detailing easier later.
*Under-corset - to drop the greys in there, this subtle bit of cloth, sticking out from under her armored corset, is coated in a layer of VMC London Grey.
*Hair - hair is going to be a rich series of browns with red highlights. So to start, we need a nice deep warm brown. VGC Charred Brown is layered on and into the whorls and curls.
*Metals - the corset, sword hilt and pommel, the disk-shaped cloak pin, and the crown are all painted with VMC Bronze. Later, the metal woven into her hair will be detailed with the same color.
*Sword Blade - this is easy; a nice even coat of a 50/50 mix of VMC Oily Steel and VMC Silver. Again, multiple thin layers are best. Later this will be highlighted up to a brightly honed steel.
Shading
*Wash Morvahna's hair and black clothing with P3 Armor Wash.
*Wash her cloak with the original color & VMC Matte Medium & P3 Coal Black.
*Once dry, wash the cloak again with more P3 Coal Black. Focus on recesses.
*The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium.
*The silver metals wash with GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium.
*Once dry, follow with a deep recess wash on all metals with P3 Armor Wash.
*The shirt under her corset gets a wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The deepest recesses of the cloak get a very thin wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The skins get a wash of GW Devlan Mud thinned with water and VMC Matte Medium.
Highlighting
*Begin by reclaiming the original color on the black clothing. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
*Reclaim the color on the shirt under the corset. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a light grey. Highlight the edges in almost pure RMS Leather White.
*Lightly reclaim the brass areas on her corset, sword, head piece, and medallion. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a further highlight. Do a final highlight with the base and RMS Polished Silver.
*Reclaim the silver on the sword. Then use the base color mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a highlight. Mix in RMS Polished Silver for a final highlight.
...after over a two-month hiatus, I return...
*Paint the lip of the base with P3 Thamar Black. Paint the inside of the base with VGC Charred Brown. Now's a good time because I'm starting on the cloak soon, and I don't want to be painting brown near it after it's done.
*Reclaim the brown color (since I had it ready from above) on the hair with a light dry brushing to hit the high points. Add a drop of GAFA Burnt Sienna to the mix and highlight some more. Keep adding and highlighting. Add a little P3 Moldy Ochre for the highest edge. Then wash entire head in GW Red Ink. Then GW Devlan Mud. Then reclaim the burnt sienna/ochre hightlights on the upper light-hitting edges.
*Using a two-brush wet blending approach, highlight the upper areas of the cloak with straight RMS Deep Ocean, pulling the color down into the darker areas. After that dries, do the same on a smaller area with a 5:1 mix of RMS Deep Ocean and RMS Leather White. Proceed to a 5:2 mix. Then a 1:1 mix for the extreme edges. Then, to smooth it all out, wash the entire cloak with P3 Turquoise Ink and water in very thin layers.
*Reclaim the skin by using the original color. After that dries, begin highlighting with a 5:1 mix of the original color base and RMS Creamy Ivory. Proceed to a 5:2 mix, on smaller areas. That should be enough, but a 1:1 mix wouldn't hurt for extreme highlights. She's gonna be pale, folks. Use a bit of GW Devlan Mud to smooth transitions and reclaim any over-highlighted areas.
Detailing
*Paint the little curls on her cheeks with straight GAFA Burnt Sienna. Paint her lips and nails with a 1:2 mix of VMC Black Red and VMC Brown Rose. Highlight the lower lip with straight VMC Brown Rose.
*Paint the eyes standard. Black, then white, then black.
*Paint the hair "trap" with VMC Bronze, then a layer of 1:1 VMC Bronze and RMS Honed Steel.
*Create a glaze with 2:1:5 of VMC Black Red, VMC Brown Rose, and VGC Glaze Medium. Carefully paint this onto the upper eye lid, up to where the eyebrow will be. Use a 2:1 mix of VGC Charred Brown and GAFA Burnt Sienna and carefully trace the model's brow ridges.
*Basecoat all the stones hanging from her wrists and across her legs with GW Foundation Charadon Granite.
Basing
*Standard Circle basing scheme.
Total time: ~12 hrs
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Swamp Gobs Begin!
Ok... documentation time. These little buggers will serve as a template for my Circle Orboros warrior models. As of the base coat, it looks really good together.
Base Coat
Start with a base of VMC Green Ochre on the skins. Shirts, pants, and handkerchief are a combination of VMC Black Grey and RMS Deep Ocean, alternating which colors are where on each model (e.g. pants and handkercheif are blue on one model, black-grey on the other). Cover the leggings, gloves, and hat in a coat of VMC London Grey. Leather bags and straps are a 50/50 blend of VGC Beasty Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (to cut the red tone). Woods on the bellows pump is a 50/50 mix of VGC Charred Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (again to cut the red tone). Cover the tubes and pipes, and the inside of the tank, in VMC Oily Steel. Coat the nozzles and trim in VMC Brass.
Shading
Skins get a wash of the original color mixed with a touch of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. The clothing is left alone; it's dark enough and gets highlighting only. The leggings, gloves, and hat get a wash of the original color mixed with VMC Black Grey. Leathers and wood get washed in a mix of GAFA Raw Umber, VMC Matte Medium, and water. The silver metals get a wash of GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, following with a deep recess wash of P3 Armor Wash. The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, follow with a deep recess wash of with a touch of P3 Armor Wash.
Highlighting
First highlight is to clean up areas of spillage and error from the washes, and do general broad highlights, using the base coat colors. Further highlights were:
Gloves - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blues - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blacks - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
Wood - base coat mixed with a touch of VGC Bonewhite.
Metals - base coat mixed with VMC Silver, especially on the bronze areas, allow original color to show.
Skin - base coat mixed with RMS Creamy Ivory. Lips, chin, nose, ears, elbows and ankles use the same mix but with added in VMC Beige Red. This added a lot of warmth and character to the models.
Detailing
Eyes - RMS Sunlight Yellow
Teeth & nails - RMS Creamy Ivory
Clean up any untidy spots, errors, what not.
Add black/brown lining between areas that seem a little indistinct.
Basing
As per my Circle Orboros standard basing technique. I've found painting the lip of the base black at some point during painting - this time during highlighting - helped provide a solid base and covered the white between the lip and the flat inner portion nicely.
Well, I promised pictures... I didn't promise they'd be good though. :-/
Total time: ~10 hours
Base CoatStart with a base of VMC Green Ochre on the skins. Shirts, pants, and handkerchief are a combination of VMC Black Grey and RMS Deep Ocean, alternating which colors are where on each model (e.g. pants and handkercheif are blue on one model, black-grey on the other). Cover the leggings, gloves, and hat in a coat of VMC London Grey. Leather bags and straps are a 50/50 blend of VGC Beasty Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (to cut the red tone). Woods on the bellows pump is a 50/50 mix of VGC Charred Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (again to cut the red tone). Cover the tubes and pipes, and the inside of the tank, in VMC Oily Steel. Coat the nozzles and trim in VMC Brass.
Shading
Skins get a wash of the original color mixed with a touch of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. The clothing is left alone; it's dark enough and gets highlighting only. The leggings, gloves, and hat get a wash of the original color mixed with VMC Black Grey. Leathers and wood get washed in a mix of GAFA Raw Umber, VMC Matte Medium, and water. The silver metals get a wash of GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, following with a deep recess wash of P3 Armor Wash. The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, follow with a deep recess wash of with a touch of P3 Armor Wash.
Highlighting
First highlight is to clean up areas of spillage and error from the washes, and do general broad highlights, using the base coat colors. Further highlights were:
Gloves - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blues - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blacks - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
Wood - base coat mixed with a touch of VGC Bonewhite.
Metals - base coat mixed with VMC Silver, especially on the bronze areas, allow original color to show.
Skin - base coat mixed with RMS Creamy Ivory. Lips, chin, nose, ears, elbows and ankles use the same mix but with added in VMC Beige Red. This added a lot of warmth and character to the models.
Detailing
Eyes - RMS Sunlight Yellow
Teeth & nails - RMS Creamy Ivory
Clean up any untidy spots, errors, what not.
Add black/brown lining between areas that seem a little indistinct.
Basing
As per my Circle Orboros standard basing technique. I've found painting the lip of the base black at some point during painting - this time during highlighting - helped provide a solid base and covered the white between the lip and the flat inner portion nicely.
Well, I promised pictures... I didn't promise they'd be good though. :-/
Total time: ~10 hours
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