Group shot

Here's the mass of Circle/Minion models I have completed to date. I just love group photos. This one's a little crowded, but still makes me feel good.

I think this may mark the end of my Circle painting for a bit. Maybe finish up some Cryx and Cygnar stuff now...

Woldwarden Step-by-Step

Took on the Woldwarden next. Made some changes from the Woldwatcher experiences and went ahead with the sponge painting approach again.

1. Base coat all stone areas black (this guy was primed white - mistake). White out the "eyes" and some of the surrounding area. The sponging will help delineate the appropriate eye area.
   
2. Sponge or stipple (in tight areas) in consecutive, diminishing layers - VMC Black Grey, P3 Ironhull Gray, P3 Cryx Bane Base, P3 Cryx Bane Highlight, P3 Trollblood Highlight. Careful to leave recessed areas black.
3. Paint all the wood and ropes with a 50/50 mix of VGC Charred Brown and RMS Dark Shadow. The Dark Shadow kills a lot of the red in the Charred Brown, making for a nice even brown with a suggestion of gray tones.
4. Paint all the wood "flesh" or exposed inner parts with a 5:1 mix of VGC Khaki and the mix for the rest of the wood. This deepens the Khaki and makes for a nice base.
5. Paint all the ropes with a 50/50 mix of VGC Khaki and VGC Earth. Careful to keep this on the ropes and knots only. Leave some dark recesses as appropriate.
6. Wash entire wood/rope areas with a mix of VMC Matte Medium, water, P3 Armor Wash, and VMC German Camo Black Brown, in equal portions.
7. Highlight wood and ropes with their original colors. Highlight up more with adding VGC Khaki as appropriate.
8. Wash the "eyes" with P3 Turquoise Ink. Leave some whiter areas in the middle; focus on edges.
   
9. Base per Circle Basing article below.

That's it. I'm on Step 9 now, and the highlighting turned out great! It's all recorded here, so I won't forget what I've done or planned to do. Will update with pictures (at this point, I have a lot of photograph and show).

Pics, as promised.























Second angle
Third angle
Fourth angle

Bones & Leaves

Some new techniques I stumbled upon or modified from other sources that I should document quick. First up, old bones; the kind sitting on the ground waiting...

Old bones
1. Base coat with VGC Bonewhite.
2. Wash with a watered mix of VGC Sepia Ink & VMC US Field Drab.
3. Glaze with a very light layer of VMC Brown Violet (actually a greenish color).
4. Highlight back up with VGC Bonewhite.
5. Pick out teeth with RMS Linen White.

And every once in a while, PP sculpts a model with leaves or grass. These can be hard to paint to match whatever terrain goes on the base. But I came up with this...

Leaves in Pewter
1. Base coast with VMC Brown Violet.
2. Highlight with P3 Ordic Olive
3. Consequetive highlights with P3 Ordic Olive and P3 Moldy Ochre mixed.
4. Last highlight should have a little more Moldy Ochre than you think you need; it really pops!

That's it. Both of the techniques were developed on my latest Shifting Stones. Should have pictures... eventually.

Sentry Stones













Second angle

Shifting Stones










Second angle

Feralgeist #2 and new Trollbloods basing

Did another "accidental" Feralgeist. Did the same process, but started with more of a 50/50 GW Dark Green and Yellow ink mix near the bottom and slowly transitioned into a mostly yellow ink near the top. Actually, did the top 1/3 and the bottom 1/3 and then transitioned between. Did the bones the same as before. The base was a bit different. Followed the Cygnar base process, but after the ballast dried, I deviated...

1. Dry brush VGC Earth on the turf
2. Dry brush a layer of VGC Earth and VGC Khaki mixed on the high areas
   
3. Dry brush straight VGC Khaki near the tips of stuff
4. Paint on front arc markings with VMC German Camo Brown Black
   
5. Glue on smallish areas of my custom Summer Mix flock
6. Glue on some areas around and above (where possible) of straight GF9 Summer Blend

Looks really good. A dryer look with a lot of texture in the base. This method will be great for my trolls. The second Feralgeist is outside now, his layer of gloss coat drying nicely. Started two Sentry Stones as well, in my standard sponged-on rock method. They looks great with a lot of turquoise-glowing areas. Just need to finish up the sculpted foliage and base them.












Second angle
Third angle

Front arc markings...

Just to keep it all straight and organized, I'm writing my front arc markings color choices here. The goal is to have colors that are dark, subtle and easily overlooked when simply viewing the model, but easy enough to see in play, while also helping to tie the army together in a cohesive style.

1. Cygnar - VGC Imperial Blue
2. Circle Orboros - VMC Black Gray
3. Cryx - VGC Scurf Green
   
4. Trollbloods - VMC German Camo Black Brown
   
5. Highborn Covenant - VGC Royal Purple
6. Legion of Everblight - RMS Walnut Brown

Painting the front arcs involves using YoungWolf7's front arc measuring templates, a fine brush (0 or 1) and a steady hand. Be sure to thin the paints with Stokes Magic Sauce because the lines get thick with raised borders otherwise. Ugly...

Minions will use the color of the faction they'll most likely see time with. For example, my first Feralgeist went with the Circle Orboros front arc markings. My second one will go with Trollbloods. The colors are subtle enough, and faint enough, to not matter. Being painted's the most important part. Yay!

Feralgeist: A Bit of Random Painting

I somehow just started this guy. After buying some P3 Turquoise Ink, I realized I could get a cool color if I mixed some of my preexisting inks. With my Feralgeist sitting there, primed and waiting, I went to town. Here's what I did...

1. Cover the entire spirit portion of the model with a 50/50 mix of GW Dark Green Ink and GW Yellow Ink. Mixing in some Vallejo Matte Medium on the subsequent layers, I was able to darken the effect.*
   
2. Paint the carcass with a solid base coat of VGC Bone White
3. Wash the carcass with a mix of VGC Dark Fleshtone and water, with a drop of VMC US Field Drab, to cut the red tone. This gives an appoximation of P3 Idrian Flesh, as recommended for this model in NQ #16.
4. Highlight the bones' natural edges with RMS Creamy Ivory. This approximates the 50/50 mix of P3 Menoth White Highlight and 'Jack Bone, again as recommended in NQ #16.
   
5. Wash the entire carcass with a blend of one part GW Red Ink, two parts GW Brown Ink, and lots of water. I added some more red ink to the mix for a little extra gore. Worked well.
6. Re-highlight the bones' natural edges as in step 4, but keep it subtle.
   
7. Base as Circle Bases tutorial below - this guy will work most often with my Circle. I skipped the front arc markings since he has no melee weapon and will often be used in other factions; the colors won't clash that way. I also skipped the leaves, since his usable base area is kind of limited.
   

*Two thoughts: be sure to let each layer dry thoroughly; I almost ruined the effect in places as the ink rubbed off. And on my next Feralgeist, only use one layer of ink, with no Matte Medium - the effect was cooler before adding too much color - the yellow stayed high, and the green went into the recesses. Oh well, next time.

Voila! He looks neat. His gloss coat is drying as I write this. He'll get dull coated tomorrow and maybe I'll get some pictures. Overall, took about two hours; should knock out the second one quick while the method is still fresh in my mind.

Good night, all!

Morvahna: Pomegranate Inspired

Based on the narrative I wrote last year about Kaya's battle against the skorne and her relationship (a bit) with Morvahna, and given my personal desire to paint more, I'm looking for inspiration for the high lady of Orboros.

How can I work the pomegranate imagery of my story into my paint scheme for Morvi? If you have any suggestions, please include how I'd achieve the effect. So far, I'm thinking her cloak will be a deep red/pomegranate color, the color of the seeds.

Here's a good photo reference, but I'm struggling on how to achieve these colors. What would you start with and how would you shade/highlight? And here's one with more high and low lights.

(I know this post is kinda scattered, but it's an accurate portrayal of my creative process.)

EDIT: Quickly playing around with my available paints, I found that VGC Gory Red mixed with VGC Hexed Lichen, in a 5:1 ratio, resulted in the base color I'm looking for. I think adding a smidgen of VGC Imperial Purple might result in a good shading color. But the reference photos show a strange fleshy highlight color. Maybe I'll play with VMC Beige Red for a highlight mix (an almost identical color to P3 Midlund Flesh), followed by some glazes of red ink. That might work in light of the "painting gems" tutorial in NQ #16. Any thoughts?

Woldwyrd Step-by-Step

Here's my Woldwyrd step-by-step, documented based on my Woldwatcher experiences, plus improvements made. I want to keep up this approach for all my constructs.

1. Fill in any flaws from the black priming with P3 Thamar Black (use thinned with about 50% paint, 25% Stokes' Magic Mix and 25% water).
2. Sponge on in decreasing coverage, sequential layers, straight from the bottle: VMC Black Grey, P3 Ironhull Grey, P3 Cryx Bane Base, P3 Cryx Bane Highlight. Simulate lighting and highlights.
3. Paint "eyeball" with GW Hawk Turquoise.
4. Darken upper "eyeball" by mixing turquoise with Blue Ghost wash.
5. Lighten the lower area by mixing in P3 Morrow White. Dot of pure P3 Morrow White opposite the lower highlight.
6. Carefully paint wood and ropes with P3 Battlefield Brown, including around "eyeball".
7. Wash wood and ropes with a watered mixture of P3 Battlefield Brown and P3 Armor Wash.
8. Highlight back up with P3 Battlefield Brown plus P3 Trollblood Highlight and GW Bestial Brown (to warm up the wood).
9. Pick out ropes with VGC Earth and a light VGC Khaki highlight here and there.
10. Wash ropes with a watered mixture of P3 Battlefield Brown. Re-highlight with VGC Khaki.
11. Base, gloss coat, dull coat x2 light layers, add slush mix, dry brush P3 Morrow White, and then gloss varnish the slush.

Total time: ~4 hours

After a couple hours work, I'm on stage 11 right now. I added the slush mix this morning, now I'm hitting the movies. Later I'll be doing the gloss on the slush, and I'll be done in time to field the little bugger tonight in my Kromac rematch against Thagrosh...

W00t!

Finally, some photos...
























Angle 2
Angle 3
Angle 4

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Now playing: "Cut Down" by Sister Machine Gun

Cygnar Bases

Here's the process I've developed to base my Cygnar models (from here on out that is; some of my older models are much simpler)... Make sure you allow plenty of drying time between each stage.

1. Paint entire inside area of base, including any cork, with VGC Earth.
2. Using 50/50 PVA glue to water to glue my ballast/sand mix into place.
3. Wash the entire base with a wash of P3 Battlefield Brown.
4. For cork bases, add P3 Armor Wash to the original wash; apply in the deep recesses.
   
5. Dry brush or stipple VGC Earth onto the natural highlights.
   
6. Clean up black border on base; paint front arc markings in VGC Imperial Blue.
   
7. Using above PVA mix, glue "Summer Flock" into place*.
   
8. One strong layer of Testor's Gloss Coat, following by 2 light coats of Tester's DullCote**.
9. Using above PVA mix, glue tufts of my static grass mix into place***.

*My "Summer Flock" is a 50/50 mix of Woodland Scenics Green Blend and Burnt Grass, with some sprinkles of GF9's Summer Blend to whatever looks right to me. The GF9 stuff is too bright without the other colors. And a good flock is always a mix. Experiment!

**I use two different spray varnishes for a couple reasons: 1) gloss is actually the stronger protector. The stuff was designed glossy, and the process that makes it dull weakens it chemically. 2) I use my models; a lot, in some cases. Having a layer of gloss coat at the bottom lets you know when the dull coat is wearing off so you can reapply before the paint is damaged. 3) I have this pesky problem where all the matte medium I use (and I use a lot) interacts with dull coat and turns a milky white in the deep recesses where it should be black. It's very annoying. I've found gloss coat doesn't interact with the matter medium. 4) I find something satisfying about bringing all the mixed gloss/satin/matte of the model up to an even gloss, and then down to an even dull, helps bring all the colors into alignment and blends away a lot of little color gradient goofs.

***My static grass mix is a roughly 50/50 mix of classic bright green static grass and GF9's Winter/Dead grass. It mutes the intensity of the green grass enough that you don't need to dry brush the grass if you don't want to. It looks more realistic, in my opinion.

So that's it. Documented for posterity. I'll post some pictures of my Centurion that I finally finished later on today or tomorrow...

Finally, some photos... figure since this is a post about basing, I'd start there.












Then show the whole model...























Angle 2
Angle 3
Angle 4

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Now playing: "Dig It" by Skinny Puppy

Tharn Ravagers Layer by Layer

Ok, I don't want to get rid of the richness of my prior post, but I need something more user-friendly. So here it is; my Tharn layer-by-layer

Skins

1. Base coat - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner [1:1]
2. Flesh tone, 2-3 coats for coverage - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, H2O [7:1:1:1]
3. Flesh wash #1 - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, Matte Medium, water [3:1:2:1:5]
4. Flesh wash #2, recesses only - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, VMC German Camo Brown Black, Stokes' magic sauce, VGC Matte Medium, water [1:1:1:2:1:5]
5. Highlight #1, same as Flesh tone - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, H2O [7:1:1:1]
6. Highlight #2 - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, H2O [9:1:1:1]
7. Highlight #3 - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, H2O [11:1:1:1]

Das ist alles fur jetzt...

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Now playing: "Inside of me" by Benny Benassi

Tharn Ravagers Update

Well, I dove in on the Ravagers. This is going to be a long process; very complicated models. Next time PP wants to design a model off creatures that think, "I'll attach every piece of meat and bit of trash I can find to myself with these tiny little strings", I'm gonna reach through the intertubes and throttle someone! That said, I'm happy with the progress so far. This blog entry is to document the procedures I've used and developed.

Skins

1. Base coat [DONE] - The first layer of skin was a 50/50 mix of RMS Grey Liner and RMS Tanned Skin. This was a really nice, warm, but too dark gray. Awesome color for some other projects, I'm sure. Next, I put down two (in some spots, three) very thin layers of a new mix. RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, and water in a 7:1:1:1 ratio. Worked like a charm, dried very smooth and even, and resulted in the kind of odd skin tone - somewhat sickly, but still vibrant - that I was looking for.
2. Shading [IN PROGRESS] - Following the standard for skins, I want to mix up a wash that incorporates the base tone, but darkens it with browns. I'm avoiding any reddish browns, because I want to maintain the unsavory look. I began with a mix slightly darker than the original color and used this as an all-over wash - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, Stokes' magic sauce, water, and Matte Medium in a 3:1:2:5:1 ratio. Then to deepen the shadowed areas, I mixed a darker mix - RMS Tanned Skin, RMS Grey Liner, VMC German Camo Brown Black, Stokes' magic sauce, water, and Matte Medium in a 1:1:1:2:5:1 ration. I applied this only to bring out the muscle definition. This provided a neutral brown that lets the grey/flesh combo come through. As I use these colors, I want a clean brush handy to walk some of the darker color up out of the recesses a little, to assure a smooth transition.
   
3. Highlighting [IN PROGRESS] - The obvious first step will highlight with the base color. Then I'll add progressively more RMS Tanned Flesh to the base mix. Add some higher highlights in smaller areas with more Tanned Flesh. Using a thin paint at this stage really helps with blending. I want some contrast, but not too much bling, so I'm avoiding the RMS Linen White as I originally planned.
   

More to come as I progress and experiment. I'll keep y'all posted.

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Now playing: "Lord of this World" by Black Sabbath

The Ravagers Begin

I will soon tackle my first unit for Hordes - my Tharn Ravagers plus the Shaman. I'm debating laying Kromac's skin tone at the same time, at very least, but we'll see. But the scheme I intend to use is as follows:

1. Skin Tones - pale and unsavory will be the trick. I'm considering a basecoat of 50/50 RMS Tanned Flesh and RMS Grey Liner. Wash with a mix of the basecoat plus a little RMS Brown Liner. Highlight back up with base coat + adding more Tanned Flesh at each level. Eventually add RMS Linen White for the final layers. Eyes - consider WarpWolf eyes - dead black eyes with a white pip in the middle. Mouth/teeth - same as WarpWolf.
2. Clothing layers - P3 Thamar Black, highlighted up with VMC Black Grey, final highlights mix in a little P3 Trollblood Highlight. Smaller cloth layers - consider a complimentary color - e.g. P3 Coal Black/VMC Cork Brown mix like the WarpWolf skin.
   
3. Weapons - VMC Hammered Copper base with progressive highlights of VMC Hammered Copper + VGC Oiled Steel to pure VGC Oiled Steel. Highlight with VGC Oiled Steel + RMS Honed Steel. Wash with watered down layers of Black Ghost Wash or P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with RMS Honed Steel.
4. Leathers – GW Scorched Brown washed with P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with GW Scorched Brown. Fine highlights with GW Snakebite Leather or Bestial Brown.
5. Dead trophies - decide as I go, but some will use VGC Dead Flesh instead of Tanned Flesh, but use the same method for the skin tones.
6. Turquoise - any crystals or runes should be treated like the crystal from the WoldWatcher. Base in GW Turqoiuse, darken upper area by mixing in Blue Ghost wash, lighten the lower area with P3 Morrow White. Dot of pure P3 Morrow White opposite the lower highlight.
   

Hopefully this works out and looks good. Nice thing is, I can always change my mind along the way. Neat huh?

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Now playing: "The Distance" by Cake

WoldWatcher frustration

Well, I tried and failed to use my standard stone wash. I obsessed over the wood and ropes. I screwed up the stone. I worked and worked.

Finally, I gave up. Using VMC Black Grey, P3 Ironhull Grey, P3 Cryx Bane Base, and P3 Cryx Bane Highlight - and a bunch of transport foam left-overs - I sponge painted him. He looks okay. I'm just happy he's done. And he's very dark now; matching my scheme nicely. I think I'll paint one of my WoldWardens to match him, and the other one to match my Shifting Stones. So I'll have straight gray and splotchy gray constructs. Also, I think splotchy will go with turquoise, and a truer blue with truer gray.

For the record, the wood was GW Scorched Brown with a P3 Armor Wash/GW Scorched Brown wash, and then rehighlighted. The ropes were then picked out with VGC Earth and a light VGC Khaki highlight here and there. The ropes were washed with GW Scorched Brown, too.

My pride and joy, however, is the turquoise gem on his forehead. I've never tried this method of making reflective jewels before, but it seemed straightforward enough. And voila, it worked!

The basing is done; the slush is drying on him now. He'll be ready for the camera tomorrow.

EDIT: I remember now why I like to start with gloss coat and then dull coat. The straight doll cote likes to react with the matte medium in my washes and turn white in areas with a lot of wash. When I use gloss coat first, this doesn't happen. I've spent an hour black-lining this PITA model. Hopefully, I've got it all now. So, from now on, gloss first, then dull coat.

As promised... pictures...




































































And a close up of the gem I'm so proud of...







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Now playing: "Heartbeats" by The Knife

Pix of Recent Work

Because Blogger's giving me a little gruff, here are some recent pictures, in order, without out much ado. I know the pics aren't the greatest. But any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Now that these are done, on to my WoldWatcher...

These are in my Spring's Darkness theme for Circle. (Considering thematic titles for my other factions: Summer's Triumph for Cygnar, Autumn's Ire for Cryx, and Winter's Hope for Trollbloods.)

Shifting Stones

















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Now playing: "Cuts You Up" by Peter Murphy

Circle Bases

To document the process of basing my Circle models, here goes... Make sure you allow plenty of drying time between each stage.

1. Paint inside of base with VGC Charred Brown.
2. Using 50/50 PVA glue to water to glue my ballast/sand mix into place.
3. Wash the base with VGC Charred Brown/P3 Armor Wash/water.
4. Clean up black border on base; paint front arc markings as desired.
5. Using above glue mix, glue GF9 Winter/green static grass mix into place.
6. Using above glue mix, glue Woodland Scenics Green Blend into place.
7. Mix 50/50 Slush/Snow mix with some PVA and mixing medium. 
8. Add to base realistically; next to logs, etc. - water on the brush helps positioning
9. Dry brush a little P3 Morrow White over the snow/slush.
10. Gloss coat. Dry. Dull coat. Dry. Second light dull coat. Dry.
11. Lightly layer on VGC Gloss Varnish over the snow/slush.

Voila! It's a little labor intensive and kinda messy, but it looks very much like a wet forest floor going through the spring thaw.

EDIT: 9/13/08; 2/7/09
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Now playing: "First and Last and Always" by Sisters of Mercy

WarpWolf Beginning to End

For posterity, I've decided to document the painting process on my WarpWolf. I learned a thing or two in doing this model, too, which means I need this info handy for later. This is presented in roughly the order it was done. Note the heavy use of P3 Armor Wash - I actually did a lot of that all at once when more of the model was actually covered. This is great stuff!

• Skin – P3 Coal Black with progressive highlights of P3 Coal Black + VMC Cork Brown. Wash with P3 Armor Wash.
• Fur – Progressive shades of grey, beginning with P3 Ironhull Grey, adding in layers of VGC Cold Grey. Wash with Black Ghost Wash as needed. A little RMS Honed Steel looks nice here and there, too.
  
• Eyes – black in with P3 Thamar Black and use one dot of P3 Morrow White for the pupil on each eye.
• Armor – VMC Hammered Copper base with progressive highlights of VMC Hammered Copper + VGC Oiled Steel to pure VGC Oiled Steel. Highlight with VGC Oiled Steel + RMS Honed Steel. Wash with watered down layers of Black Ghost Wash or P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with RMS Honed Steel.
• Inside of Mouth and Tongue – coat everything with VGC Dark Fleshtone. Then layer on a mixture of VGC Dark Fleshtone and VMC Beige Red. Wash the roof of the mouth in Black Ghost Wash. P3 Thamar Black to clean up the borders/black line between tongue and teeth.
• Spikes and Teeth – Dry brush successive layers of GW Snakebite Leather, VGC Bonewhite, and RMS Linen White. Fine highlights with P3 Morrow White. Wash base of spikes with watered down GW Scorched Brown and then with P3 Armor Wash.
• Leather – GW Scorched Brown washed with P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with GW Scorched Brown. Fine highlights with GW Snakebite Leather or Bestial Brown.
• Claws – Black with fine line highlight down the curve of the claw with VMC Black Grey.
• Base - Cover entire inside of base with GW Scorched Brown.
• Rocks - Paint rocks with P3 Greatcoat Grey. Highlight by mixing in VGC Cold Grey.
• Log - Lightly paint entire fallen log with VMC US Army Field Drab. Wash length of the log with P3 Armor Wash; allow it to pool. Highlight with original color and some lines of GW Scorched Brown. Dry brush VGC Khaki and RMS Linen White in successive layers on the ends of the log. Black line between the bark and the bare wood at each end. It helps.
• Ballast - Add glue and ballast as needed. Wash ballast with a mix of P3 Armor Wash + GW Scorched Brown. Dry brush back up with VGC Earth or other suitable color for your scheme. Or leave dark, because it looks like moist/wet earth.
  
• Base - Re-paint the black outside of the base. Using thinned down watery P3 Thamar Black and a flat brush, pulling down instead of right to left, resulted in a very smooth finish on the base.
• Clear coat - Clear coat entire model. I use a thin layer of Testor's Gloss Coat followed by two layers of Test
  
• Static Grass - Add static grass sparingly. When dry, dry brush on some VGC Khaki into the grass. The effect should appear as if new growth is coming out from the dead grass.
• Slushy Snow - Mix 50/50 Slush mix with water. Add to base in areas that make sense, the shadows of the log or rocks, etc. This needs to dry a long time.When dry, dry brush on some P3 Morrow White to brighten it up.
• Gloss Varnish – Using VGC Gloss Varnish, add a little gloss to the snow, maybe the surrounding soil, and to the Warpwolf’s tongue/inside of mouth and a little to each eye.

Well, that's it. I'll post pictures later. On to the Shifting Stones and then the WoldWatcher.

UPDATE: Shifting Stones are done, too.

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Now playing: "Addiction" by Sister Machine Gun

Step It Up Challenge

FULLY-PRIMED '08 is complete!
ALL MODELS ARE 100% ASSEMBLED & PRIMED!

Taking a page out of the No Quarter's Studio Challenge and IMI's attempted Step It Up events - both essentially the same idea - I'm going to try this new and improved 350 pt Morvahna the Autumnblade list, and as I get it painted, add more to it, until I reach 1000pts (spoiler: I'm considering Baldur for 'lock #2, though if eKaya is out, she may take priority).

Morvahna the Autumnblade
[DONE] Warpwolf
[DONE] Woldwatcher
[DONE] Shifting Stones
Tharn Ravagers (4)
345/350

I chose Morvahna for a couple reasons. She's my favorite to play, given her little tricks and ins and outs, and I'm tired of hearing people say she's not competitive; I think the girl's got more to her than most people realize. First, every girl needs a Warpwolf, so I added him in. The Shifting Stones are just fun and already mostly painted. The Tharn are my go-to unit for Circle, especially Morvahna. Her Regrowth spell makes them so annoying. I'm concerned at fielding a min. unit, but I'll step them up to 500 soon enough. That said, I'm going to paint the entire unit plus UA at once for sake of uniformity. Finally, the Woldwatcher - he's probably my favorite light in the game, with the Pyre Troll taking a close second. I love his animus and he looks fun to paint.

I'll give myself a couple months to finish and play test this. Then I'll step it up to 500. I'll keep posting my progress and my game results here.

EDIT: It looks like I'm being taken up on my challenge to other locals. The goal now is to have this list painted up by June 28th. It won't help me for the Hardcore Tourney that day, but it's a motivation to Bowen, Stokes, and Monty Kev. Best get crackin'!

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Now playing: "Traversing the Portals of Reality" by Akira Yamaoka

Circle Orboros Color Scheme

First off, I'm 99% done with all my assembly and priming. All I need to do is finish up my Troll Long Riders. Four more to go and then they can all get the can. The primer can, that is.

Meanwhile, the title says it all. I'm trying to come up with a unifying color scheme for my Circle forces.

1. Light beasts - see Speed Painting Nephilim Soldier article in NQ#18
2. Dark beasts - P3 Thamar Black; h: P3 Coal Black & VMC Cork Brown.
3. Fur - Take the scheme for the skin and lighten it. Brush onto fur. (See Circle entry in Evolution)
   
4. Wolds/Shifting & Sentry stones - warm greys, blue runes
5. Armor - *see below
   
6. Human skin tones - normal warm tones (see Escalation for good tutorial)
   
7. Tharn skin tones - something paler, almost sickly or bluish; base 50/50 RMS Tanned Flesh and RMS Grey Liner, with progressively more flesh tone.
   
8. Clothing - VMC Black h: VMC Black Grey w/ Cryx Bane Highlight? mixed in.
9. Leathers - VMC German Uniform Brown, w: GW brown ink & P3 Thamar Black, h: Trollblood Highlight
   
10. Teeth and claws - GW Snakebite leather; h: VMC tan and VGC bone white

Looks like a good start. I'm sure I'll modify it as I go. I'm considering finishing the Warpwolf to fine tune the leathers and armor and then starting the Pureblood using the Speed Painting article from NQ#18. This shouldn't be so hard; I can make more progress without being so obsessive. Bases can be pretty standard, but with a mix of dead and green leaves + slushy snow!

Let's see if this actually pans out.

Ok, I painted more on the WarpWolf. *Armor findings.

• VMC Bronze + a little P3 Thamar Black
• Add in VGC Oiled Steel for highlights
• Add in RMS Honed Steel and dry brush
• Dry brush straight RMS Honed Steel
  
• Very watery wash of Black Ghost Wash
• Dry brush/highlight with RMS Honed Steel

The effect is like deep bronze with silvery highlights where the edges have been worn and buffed from use. Looks nice! I tried to fill in the recessed spaces with blue to tie in with my Wolds/Stones, but I hated it. Took it out. I like the effect I have, and it creates a more monotone look to the model. The only blue then will be the runes on the Wolds/Stones. Nice!

Accidental techniques are awesome! I've been trying to find a way to paint the inside of beasts' mouths realistically. I think I found an easy way that works.

• Coat inside with VGC Dark Fleshtone. Leave black areas between inside of teeth and tongue, etc.
• Add in a little VMC Beige Red and highlight/re-coat.
• Lightly wash top of mouth and edges of tongue with Black Ghost Wash.
• P3 Thamer Black to clean up the borders.
  

Voila! Instant cool! Wow, I'm on a roll... the teeth are looking good too, with just GW Snakebite Leather dry brushed on.

Go, me!

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Now playing: "Intergalactic" by Beastie Boys

The Home Stretch...

The thread that never ends... Just a few more to finish off for completely-primed '08. I've got about two dozen models left to assemble/spray (see the tallies below). Maybe today will be a nice day... I really wanna move on, but won't let myself until this is all done!

Cygnar - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] Ten (10) Precursor Knights
-[DONE] One (1) Thunderhead

Circle - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] Five (5) Tharn Wolf Riders

Cryx - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] One (1) Lich Lord Asphyxious
-[DONE] One (1) Epic Skarre
-[DONE] One (1) Egregore
-[DONE] One (1) Lich Lord Terminus
-[DONE] Ten (10) Bane Knights

Trollbloods - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] One (1) Borka Keg Slayer
-[DONE] One (1) Keg Bearer
-[DONE] Five (5) Long Riders

Mercenaries - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] One (1) Master Gunner McNaille
-[DONE] One (1) Mariner
-[DONE] One (1) Mariner

Minions - 100% DONE!
-[DONE] One (1) Feralgeist
-[DONE] One (1) Feralgeist
-[DONE] Two (2) Swamp Gobbers

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Left to repair: o
Left to assemble: 0
Left to prime: 0

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NEXT UP: Painting whatever the hell I wanna paint! Because all this structure is making me cranky! Grrrr!

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Now playing: "Where Is Everybody?" by Nine Inch Nails

Countdown to Fully-Primed '08

The title says it all; I'm trying to get all my priming done. I've also got a small list of other repairs, clean-ups, and assembly jobs taken from last week's blog post.

FULLY-PRIMED MINUS ASSEMBLY/REPAIR!

Fully-Primed '08 - Say no to pewter models!
-[DONE] Cygnar: 138/149
-[DONE] Circle: 62/67
-[DONE] Cryx: 95/111
-[DONE] Trollbloods: 34/40
-[DONE] Mercenaries: 57/60
-[DONE] Minions: 4/5
Total stragglers: 42

Clean-ups & Repairs - the list grows...
-[DONE] Thunderhead (minor reassembly/cleaning)
-[NEXT BLOG] Lich Lord Terminus (to pin some spines)
-[DONE] Lich Lord Aphyxious (prime 'im)
-[NEXT BLOG] Two (2) of 12 Bane Knights (brass rod)
-[NEXT BLOG] Egregore (green stuff ooze vertical support)
-[NEXT BLOG] Feralgeist (green stuff gap-fill)
Total models finished: 12/17

Assembly List - lingering left-overs
-[DONE] Nine (9) Precursor Knights (prime 'em)
-[NEXT BLOG] One (1) Precursor Knight (mispack)
-[NEXT BLOG] Epic Skarre (HOT, must try)
-[NEXT BLOG] Master Gunner McNaille (with plank base)
-[DONE] One (1) Mariner (Simple Green soaker)
-[NEXT BLOG] One (1) Mariner (new in package)
-[NEXT BLOG] Four (4) Long Riders (love those trolls)
-[NEXT BLOG] Five (5) Tharn Wolf Riders
-[NEXT BLOG]Borka Kegslayer and [DONE] Keg Bearer
Total models assembled: 11/25

Not bad... a worthwhile endeavor; no bare models in '08, baby!

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Now playing: "Drive That Fast" by Kitchens of Distinction

Progress made... keeping up the momentum

First, I want to say that the 4-11 tournament I played in was a blast! Very intense and fast-paced games against some great people, with some hilarious April Fools' scenarios. Chuck's Hoarluk and Pete's eSkarre managed to take down big Termi, but Terminus personally took down Sarah's Haley and Kev's Butcher in some spectacular style (stacking Malediction and Dark Shroud on the Butcher, leaving him DEF 12, ARM 14... priceless). Overall, I took best in Cryx by strength of schedule (the Butcher was against someone who had 4 defenses of his table; we played Stampede style for this event; great format). Of course, Terminus ended up a little worse for wear; transporting him is near-impossible...
(Terminus update: designed and executed a solution)

So, after a good showing of hard work last weekend, I'm continuing to push forward with general maintenance and catch-up projects. See my last blog for details on last week's accomplishments. Now onto the new goals. This will finish the priming of my Cygnar & Circle, get a few repairs done, and finish all my lingering assembly work.

Fully-Primed '08 - Cygnar-Circle-Cryx
-[DONE] All Cygnar (minus the Thunderhead)
-[DONE] All Circle models
-[DONE] 64 Cryx models (16 left to fully-primed)

Clean-ups & Repairs - the list grows...
-[NEXT BLOG] Thunderhead (reassembly/cleaning)
-[NEXT BLOG] Lich Lord Terminus (to pin some spines)
-[NEXT BLOG] Lich Lord Asphyxious (brass rod)
-[NEXT BLOG] Two (2) Bane Knights (brass rod)
-[NEXT BLOG] Egregore (green stuff vertical support)
-[NEXT BLOG] Feralgeist (green stuff gap-fill)

Assembly List - lingering left-overs
-[NEXT BLOG] Epic Skarre (after seeing in her action)
-[NEXT BLOG] Master Gunner McNaille (ubiquitous planks)
-[NEXT BLOG] Mariner (post-Simple Green soaking)
-[NEXT BLOG] Mariner (new one, for 3 total)
-[NEXT BLOG] Four (4) Long Riders (love those trolls)

Wish me lucks, all... I'll be adding some Cryx in here too as time goes on. I have to see how this weekend pans out.

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Now playing: "Starlight" by Muse

Ugh... still no progress... but another plan

Ok... I need to get organized and make some headway! First, my Circle painting goal list is (and has been) totally assembled and primed (see below). Second, I'm trying to get more stuff assembled and primed, especially since the weather finally broke and it's nice outside! Focusing on Cygnar and Circle for now. Also, bought a fresh can of black Dupli-Color Sandable Primer (the most amazing primer ever). So as a baby step...

Priming - Fully Primed in '08, Baby!
-[DONE] 52 Cygnar models (7 models left to fully primed)
-[DONE] 19 Circle models (8 models left to fully primed)
-[DONE] Aiyana and Holt (needed for current Cygnar builds)
-[NEXT BLOG] Storm Lances (ready)
-[NEXT BLOG] Rangers unit leader (ready)
-[NEXT BLOG] Thunderhead (soaking in Simple Green)
-[NEXT BLOG] 7 Tharn Ravagers (ready)
-[NEXT BLOG] Second Warpwolf (ready)

Soaking in Simple Green - nothing like a fresh start
-[NEXT BLOG] Thunderhead (trying not to disassemble)
-[DONE] Mariner (now needs to be reassembled)

Assembly list - finally!
-[DONE] Storm Lances (three have been rider-less)
-[DONE] Rangers unit leader (small pin/repair job needed)
-[DONE] Tharn Rav Shaman UA (just got 'im & I needs him!)
-[DONE] Dire Troll Mauler (a long road on this one)

Green Stuffing - ditto!
-[DONE] 2nd Warpwolf mods (just a little shoulder muscle left)
-[DONE] Gap-filling on last couple Tharn Ravs

This starter project will result in the entirety of my two main armies assembled and brought up to primed (at least for now). I think once everything's assembled and primed, and I mean everything, I'll feel more like painting. I hope...

EDIT: After all this work, I'm on a roll. Next up, CRYX!!!

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Now playing: "Promise" by Akira Yamaoka

Morvahna the Autumnblade

Planning means not actually painting... lol...

1. Armor/bodice - a dark bronze (VMC Bronze) with a silver sheen, with a blue wash inside instead of green. See Hordes: Evolution for a recipe using red; substitute blues. Use armor colors on bracelets as well.

2. Robes/fabrics - a base of VMC Black Grey. P3 Armor Wash to darken it up and add shadows to the recesses. Lightened it back up with Black Grey, then a lighter medium grey (borrowed from brushtralls.com). Possible use this or P3 Coal Black for the cloak, and take it all lighter, perhaps with Cryx Bane Highlight, for the sleeves and skirt. Use darker for fabric behind the bodice.

3. Skin tone - basecoat 50/50 Reaper Blue Liner and Reaper Tanned Skintone, and worked up from there by adding more and more Tanned Skintone, then adding Linen White at the final. The key to this skintone is that, no matter how light the layer, there is always a trace of the Blue Liner in the Tanned/Linen mix (borrowed from the Reaper Gallery). Consider scraping this idea and just going with the standard warm healthy skin tone. Regardless, lips and eyes should match by adding a little VMC Rose Brown or other neutral red (to make either a purpley color or a natural lip color). Consider Dune-esque effect for her eyes.

4. Leathers - dark brown base, P3 Armor Wash, highlighted up with brown base, then progressive mix of P3 Trollblood highlight or Cryx Bane highlight.

5. Hair - Brown so dark that it's almost black. Highlight with dark browns. Very dark overall.

6. Stones/runes - consider turquoise, provided the balance of colors work out.

Whatcha think?

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Now playing: "London Dungeon" by The Misfits

Personal Painting Pledge

It has to begin somewhere. So here's the theory. Taking a page from the new No Quarter (#17), where the studio guys start small forces and build them up over time, I'm starting with a 350 pt army that I will attempt to paint . Focusing on my Circle, we'll begin there. So, here's the list, with a couple in-progress projects noted. Not exactly super viable on the table, but it's the core of a larger force, one that can easily swap in other 'locks.

Morvahna the Autumnblade
Warpwolf (50% complete)
Gorax
Woldwatcher
Shifting Stones (50% complete)
Swamp Gobber Bellows Crew
342/350

The obvious first stop is to finish what's already begun...
Edit: Mar-14 - to change my warlock... for now...

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Now playing: "Terror Couple Kill Colonel" by Bauhaus

Trying again...

It's obviously been a while, but I'm trying again. I've added a side bar, listing what I'm hoping to be working on. This is in addition to a bunch of assembling I have to do. Later, I'm going to post my progress and also post new pics of my work area. It's all in an attempt to get motivated.

Some new strategies: (1) less TV, (2) more movies on my laptop at my painting desk, (3) paint and play - make a list I like to play and attempt to get it painted. My last thought is to resume use of a painting group; try to get the old team together to paint and socialize. It's always more fun when you have someone to show your progress to immediately, and get advice from regarding colors and techniques.

I've settled on a paint scheme for my Circle as well. It's going to be dark. The initial work on my WarpWolf is black fur, with P3 Coal Black highlights, lightened with a little VMC Cork Brown, leading to an oddly bluish-green hue. The fur has some cool grey highlights to set it apart from the skin. His eyes are a simply white pupil on black, inspired by the wolves from 300. The metals will be a dark bronze with a silver sheen, with a blue wash inside instead of green. The leathers will be standard, though a little darker. The bases will have lush greens, with some forest debris, and sparing use of slush; the effect I'm going for is spring thaw and the awakening of something evil out of the woods. Should look good...

Wish me luck, all...