What's missing?

I realized that I am in serious need of photographic documentation for these projects I've worked on. Time to borrow and play around with the new camera my mom isn't using. Cheaper than buying my own for now...

Stay tuned...

Wolves of Orboros

Starting in on my Wolves of Orboros. Here's the idea so far, that I'm using on a test model:

Priming
*Prime with Duplicolor Sandable Primer Hot Rod Black
*Prime from top-down, and a little on the sides with Bright Touch Light Grey primer
*Wash the entire model with GW Badab Black
*NOTE: touch-ups can be done with VGC Cold Grey or VMC Black Grey

Base Coat
*Spear haft - GAFA Raw Umber
*Blade/pommel/armor - VMC Bronze/VMC Tinny Tin - 2:1
*Gloves, boots, leather bindings/wrappings - VGC Beasty Brown
*Clothe bindings on chest - RMS Deep Ocean

Shading
*Fur/clothing - wash with GW Badab Black as needed
*Leathers/clothing/armor/weapon - wash with GW Devlan Mud
*Clothe bindings - wash with original color/P3 Coal Black/VMC Matte Medium

Highlighting
*Fur - heavy dry brush of VGC Cold Grey
*Fur, pt 2 - lighter dry brush VGC Gold Grey & RMS Leather White
*Fur, pt 3 - straight RMS Leather White
*Weapon & armor - highlight with base mix
*Weapon & armor, pt2 - mix in VMC Oily Steel
*Leathers - highlight with base color
*Clothe bindings - highlight with base color
*Clothe bindings, pt 2 - mix in RMS Leather White

Detailing
*Belt buckles with RMS Honed Steel

Basing
*Standard Circle-style basing; for test model, just paint colors in for now.

Progress report

I finished Commander Stryker, following the standards for my Cygnar, and finishing up my first battlebox (after what five years?). And after some initial doubts he turned out rather well. Not able to get any pictures up here right now, since I no longer have a camera. Also, not sure what to paint next. Thinking about a number of things...

1. Steelhead Halberdiers (using a fast approach with spray paint/washes)
2. Kaya the Wildborne & 2 Argus (to try finishing up another battlebox)
3. Gorten Grundback, 2 Gunners, and a Driller (for another WM battlebox)
   

Thoughts?

Circle Resumes - I'M BACK!!!

Out with the Trollbloods, in with more Circle (and Cygnar, Mercs, & Minons for that matter). Decided to start trading off stuff to focus on the armies I will play and enjoy the most; have a lot of great trades in the works as I look to unload all my Trolls. If anyone reading this wants to know what I have left, leave me a comment here.

That said, the method I developed for speed-painting my Trolls should help me finish off some Circle units. Much of my Circle (and Mercs) have been primed with Dupli-color Sandable Primer in Hot Rod Gray, a pretty dark grey. I've also picked up a can of Bright Touch Light Gray, that turned out to be sandable too. First, a test model...

1. Prime with Bright Touch Light Gray.
2. Fill in bare metal with VGC Cold Grey mixed with hint of VMC Silvergrey.
3. Wash with GW Badab Black wash.

We'll see how that works and from there, apply it to my Circle Wolves of Orboros units. Starting as so...

1. Prime with either Duplicolor Sandable Primer Hot Rod Black or Hot Rod Grey.
2. Fill in bare metal with either P3 Great Coat Grey or P3 Ironhull Grey.
3. Prime from top-down only with Bright Touch Light Grey primer.
4. Wash with GW Badab Black wash.
5. Detail metals, skins, and a deep ocean highlight, per normal circle painting patterns.

Should speed things up considerably. ^_^

Gaming Pieces - Trollbloods

I'm never gonna paint all the models I own; I know that now and can accept it. Taking a page out of Franzoni's book, I give you... gaming pieces! These are one-color models, with a heavy wash to bring out the details, great for getting some color on the table.

1. Begin with a black primed Trollblood model. Mount it with poster tack onto a small wood block. Touch up anywhere the primer missed or rubbed off. Get a nice solid coat of black.
2. Holding the block, and using a can of Duplicolor Sandable White Primer, held directly at the top of the model, begin spraying back and forth, right to left. Meanwhile, rotate the model front to back, along it's front arc, about 45* each direction (forward and backward - for a total of 90*). Yes, the model's movement and the can's movement will be perpendicular to each other. This will create a strong highlight. Allow to dry.
3. Take a can of Design Master Floral Paint Robin's Egg, and begin spraying the same way, from above. But this time rotate a total of 180*; from directly above to directly level, but don't rotate up underneath the model. This creates a nice gradiant from blue-over-white, to blue-over-black, to straight black. You may have to rotate the model around a bit to get the sides; avoid the underside of the model!
4. Mix up a batch of wash using GW Asurmen Blue, a drop or two of VMC Matte Medium, and a touch of water. Give the entire model a healthy wash, including the base. Be sure to avoid large pools and use the wash to darken in the deep recesses. As it dries, add more to reenforce the shading. Use a BIG brush; it helps speed things up so you can move the pools around before the drying rings develop. Overall, a smoother outcome.
5. Repaint the lip of the base only with VGC Black. Paint front arc markings using P3 Trollblood Base. It should match almost exactly. Wash it over with the blue wash just to even it out.
6. Coat with varnish - either gloss, then matte; or just matte. These are simple pieces after all.

Voila! Done... they're not technically fully-painted, but they look nice and are a heck of a lot better than just having primed or, even worse, bare metal miniatures on the table. My test model - a Fell Caller - took about an hour. I didn't even wait for everything to dry at each level before moving on. Works like a charm! WARNING: Individual models look kinda "meh", but as the collection grows, the sense of unity and function works terrific! They really look good.

Let me know what you think. I'll post some pics when I have a bunch done - probably the battlebox with the Fell Caller. Feed back is welcome and needed!

By The Book - Cygnar: Prime

I think I want to try and paint the models I own from way back. To do that, I'm going "by the book", meaning I'll begin with Prime and work my way through to Legends, painting whatever Cygnar and Merc models I encounter along the way, in the order they appear in the book.

That means, since pCaine and pHaley are already painted, we get pStryker. I'll also take this opportunity to go back, in order, and paint front arc markings on completed models. So, to follow my standard routine, we begin with base colors...

Base Coat
*Armor - base the metals in VGC Gunmetal Metal.
*Vented plates - plates with holes get a 1:2 of VGC Tinny Tin and VMC Brass.
*Sword - base the sword in RMS Honed Steel.
*Leathers - base the leather pants and some arm areas in VGC Beasty Brown.
*Jacket - base the coat in 1:1 P3 Ironhull Grey and P3 Morrow White.
*Inner jacket - base with P3 Ironhull Grey
*Jacket trim - base with P3 Cygnar Blue Base.
*Armor highlight - gets P3 Cygnar Blue Base.
*Skin - base the face in a 1:1 mix of VMC Cork Brown and VGC Elf Skintone.
*Hair - base the hair in VGC Charred Brown.
*Hair - base with 2:1:1 mix of VMC Orange Brown, VGC Orange Fire, & VGC Bloody Red. Leave an edge of brown near the hair line.

Shading
*Armor, jacket, inner jacket, sword, and hair get a wash of GW Badab Black.
*Vented plates, leathers, and skin get a wash of GW Devlan Mud.
*Jacket trim and armor highlights get a wash of GW Asurmen Blue.
*Hair gets a wash of VGC Beasty Brown and GAFA Burnt Sienna.
*Hair gets a 1:1 mix of VGC Gory Red and GAFA Raw Umber painted into deep recesses.

Highlighting
*Hair gets rehighlighted with the base orange, then orange mixed with RMS Creamy Ivory.
*Begin highlights by reclaiming areas with base colors.
*Jacket trim and armor highlight get a 1:1 P3 Cygnar Base and Cygnar Highlight.

Wet Blending for Simple Armor Plates

...and other large surface areas. This comes from DangerMouse, a super prolific and talented painter, often featuring his work on the PP Modeling and Painting forum. His water bases are amazing!

1) Lay down the base coat color (let this dry i do all the base coat at one time)
2) Mix base color with a touch of highlight (in this case about 5 drops of base and one of white)
-at this point a also normally make 3 more mixes of: about 5 to 2 and 50/50
3) Paint the mix on where the highlighting is needed one one plate
4) Wet blend with base cat back into the dark areas (the spots where base coat is showing)
5) Blend 5 to 1 for first highlight area
6) Blend 5 to 2 for the next
7) Blend 50/50 for bright spots, edges and that sort of thing

I also work form ether the top down or the bottom up on the jack that way my lighting stays consistent . Also the mixes are not set at 5 to 1, 5 to 2, and 50/50 i mix them until they look right and give a nice some flow from base color to bright.

Wanted this preserved, so I wouldn't forget it. It's basically the process I had to accidentally discover as I painted my Grundback Blaster. Thanks again, DM! Colonel K says - well done!


EDIT: @Airport... my definition of blending. Hmmm.... Instead of thinning my paints with water, I use drying retardant, flow improver, and distilled water, in a roughly 1:1:2 ratio. A drop or two in my paint on the palette helps keep the paint workable longer.

For the Gun Bunnies below, I would paint the upper third in the first highlight color, and while wet, use a clean brush to pull the color down in streaks into the middle third. Sometimes, I'd need to add a little base color back in and swirl it while it dries. The goal is a smooth gradiant without obviously lines.

Repeat the process with the second highlight, but only cover the top quarter of the area. Blend in with some of the first highlight color. Swirl it, mix it, "blend" it - just play around so it looks right.

The final highlight is more stark, IMO, and usually a little less subtle in the blending. I try to retain a smooth transition without an obvious line, but the distance it takes to go from highlight to next color darker is a much narrower area.

Searforge (General Merc) Test Scheme

I'm using a Grundback Gunner as a test model for my over-all Merc test scheme. With some exception in metallics and various highlight colors, I think this will be the overall scheme across my gray-primed Mercs. I used my Dupli-color Sandable Primer in Hot Rod Grey - which comes very close to matching P3 Greatcoat Grey, making an easy basecoat for what's to come.

Edit 4/16/09 - added a Grundback Blaster to the mix; bringing him up to Base Coat colors and then moving on together as a pair.

Base Coat
*Metals - VGC Gunmetal Metal. The Searforge wouldn't allow oily metals like those crazy Swamp Gobbers or other wilderness types. Nice, even, classic metallic.
*Brass parts - VGC Tinny Tin and VMC Bronze in a 1:2 mix. This accidental color is awesome and creates a really nice tone/value, with good constrast.
*Hull - P3 Greatcoat Grey. See I told ya, priming gray would come in handy. Ease of coverage and a nice base for highlighting.
*Colored Hull Highlight - VGC Hexed Lichen with a spot of RMS Leather White. This accent color will carry through all my Mercs somewhere.
*Metal edging - VMC Brass and VMC Bronze in a 50/50 mix. It pops without being too bright. Including the bronze tones it down and helps blend.

Shading
*Metals - wash with GW Badab Black mixed with a little VMC Matte Medium and plenty of water. This wash may need a couple coats to build up.
*Brass parts & Metal edging - wash with GW Devlan Mud mixed with a little VMC Matte Medium and plenty of water. This wash may need a couple coats.
*Hull - wash with base color mixed with a little GW Badab Black, a little VMC Matte Medium and plenty of water. Focus on the lower areas and blend up.
*Colored Hull Highlight - wash with GW Leviathan Purple, a spot of VMC Matte Medium and plenty of water. Blend up from the lower areas.

Highlights
*Base - this is the perfect point to start the basing. Paint the inside of the base with a solid coat of VGC Earth. Use P3 Thamar Black on the lip.
*Metals - thinking of bold highlights. Highlight with a mix of VGC Gunmetal Metal and VMC Silver. Stay high and wet blend into the darker areas.
*Brass parts - Highlight with straight VMC Bronze. Stay high and wet blend into the darker areas.
*Hull - Highlight with a mix of P3 Greatcoat Grey and RMS Leather White. Stay high and wet blend into the darker areas. Use VGC Glaze Medium.
*Colored Hull Highlight - Highlight with a mix of VGC Hexed Lichen and RMS Leather White. Stay high and wet blend. Use VGC Glaze Medium.
Use VGC Glaze Medium.
*Metal edging - Highlight with straight VMC Brass. Stay high and wet blend into the darker areas.
*Blending - repeat shading washes to blend any overly-stark highlights.

Detailing
*Bolts & Screws - all the grey-based bolts and screws get painted with P3 Thamar Black and then spotted with VMC Silver. Easy! Bronzed bolts get a touch of VMC Brass; brass bolts, VMC Brass and VMC Silver.

Basing - autumn-themed
*Having already painted the inside of the base, retouch with VGC Earth.
*Using 50/50 PVA glue to water to glue my ballast/sand mix into place.
*Wash the entire inside of the base with a wash of P3 Battlefield Brown.
*Get a little sloppy and muddy up the feet - wash, dry brush, or both.
*Dry brush or stipple VGC Earth onto the natural highlights.
*Clean up black lip of base; paint front arc markings in VMC Black Grey.
*Add patches of Cygnar "Summer Blend", GF9 Autumn and GF9 Summer Flocks.
*Add a single dot with the silver Sharpee on each lip, back center.

And some pics...

Incidentally, these pics were the inspiration for my Merc bases in an autumn theme. Not a bad job matching these, considering scale and all, even if I do say so myself.

Bokur Repose

Here's something new. This is my third bokur to be attached to Gudrun in my Searforge lists. Though I'm glad I finished this before the Mk2 rules hit. The bokur was nerfed pretty hard. They're still good solos, just not as b0rken as they once where.

As for this mod. Did some chop. A lot of filing. Some A+B putty on the joins. Then lot of green stuff. Followed by the ol' knock-off Dremel for smoothing, finishing, and molding muscles. Sorry the pics aren't great, but it's some forward progress. ^_^

Pics are clickable for larger close-ups.

Return of the Fully-Primed Challenge

Just to stay up on things, and make some forward progress, announcing Fully-Primed in '09! Since last summer, I've accumulated a bunch of new stuff, so I'm priming it. In reverse order of how many points I have in each group. I'm also washing all my models now again before priming. After talking to Lincoln, I got a little paranoid about it.

5. Minions - done!
4. Trollbloods - done!
3. Mercenaries - done!
2. Circle Orboros - done!
1. Cygnar - done!

Thanks GOD for warm weather... so happy the winter is finally gone in Michigan!

My dedication knows no bounds...

I just couldn't help it. Had to share. That is all...

Thanks to gdaybloke on the PP fan art forum for this!!!

Oh and some lyrics to inspire...
Want to see you vulnerable, I am not your equal
Ruling with an iron fist, and you are on my bad list
A routine casualty
Razor sharp beauty queens
Bridges built are bridges burned
You will get what you deserve

----------------
Now playing: "Bad List" by Ayria

Ladder Challenge Revisited

Here it is, bitches. Since it seems I'm motivated again, I'm retooling my 350 for Morvahna. Yes, I understand that Morvi might not be the most competitive at 350 points, but I think this list will handle a lot and come back for more. These also include a lot of models that have a place in my heart and/or really deserve paint jobs because of their performances.

-----
^Morvahna the Autumnblade
Gnarlhorn Satyr
*Woldwyrd
Wolves of Orboros (6)
Wolves of Orboros Officer and Standard Bearer
Professor Viktor Pendrake
*Swamp Gobber Bellows Crew
-Army Points: 346/350
-----

The star denotes finished models. The little chevron denotes model(s)-in-progress. I'm cheating a little, but I'll be painting my entire unit of WoO with the UA, so there. :P

So who's with me? Lincoln, I'm looking at you!!! Challenge time! Trade Rob for Khador and let's do this...

Morvahna in Ocean Blues

On to Morvahna. After my successes with my Swamp Gobs, I'm keeping up the momentum, loving the color scheme, and applying both to my favorite warlock.

Base Coat
*Skin - finding the right skin tone has been a challenge for me, but I think I like this one. It's a 50/50 blend of VMC Cork Brown and VGC Elf Skintone. It's even, it's healthy, it's youthful. Multiple layers, thinned with my normal mixture, is key.
*Cloak - on less important models, the deep blue-green color will be less pronounced. On Morvi, it's front and center. The entire cloak is painted in a nice even coat of RMS Deep Ocean.
*Clothing - keeping with blackclad theme, Morvi's long skirt and sleeves are painted in VMC Black Grey. I've painted all the jewelry and stones this color too, just to make detailing easier later.
*Under-corset - to drop the greys in there, this subtle bit of cloth, sticking out from under her armored corset, is coated in a layer of VMC London Grey.
*Hair - hair is going to be a rich series of browns with red highlights. So to start, we need a nice deep warm brown. VGC Charred Brown is layered on and into the whorls and curls.
*Metals - the corset, sword hilt and pommel, the disk-shaped cloak pin, and the crown are all painted with VMC Bronze. Later, the metal woven into her hair will be detailed with the same color.
*Sword Blade - this is easy; a nice even coat of a 50/50 mix of VMC Oily Steel and VMC Silver. Again, multiple thin layers are best. Later this will be highlighted up to a brightly honed steel.


Shading
*Wash Morvahna's hair and black clothing with P3 Armor Wash.
*Wash her cloak with the original color & VMC Matte Medium & P3 Coal Black.
*Once dry, wash the cloak again with more P3 Coal Black. Focus on recesses.
*The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium.
*The silver metals wash with GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium.
*Once dry, follow with a deep recess wash on all metals with P3 Armor Wash.
*The shirt under her corset gets a wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The deepest recesses of the cloak get a very thin wash of P3 Armor Wash.
*The skins get a wash of GW Devlan Mud thinned with water and VMC Matte Medium.


Highlighting
*Begin by reclaiming the original color on the black clothing. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
*Reclaim the color on the shirt under the corset. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a light grey. Highlight the edges in almost pure RMS Leather White.
*Lightly reclaim the brass areas on her corset, sword, head piece, and medallion. Then use the base coat mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a further highlight. Do a final highlight with the base and RMS Polished Silver.
*Reclaim the silver on the sword. Then use the base color mixed with RMS Honed Steel for a highlight. Mix in RMS Polished Silver for a final highlight.

...after over a two-month hiatus, I return...

*Paint the lip of the base with P3 Thamar Black. Paint the inside of the base with VGC Charred Brown. Now's a good time because I'm starting on the cloak soon, and I don't want to be painting brown near it after it's done.
*Reclaim the brown color (since I had it ready from above) on the hair with a light dry brushing to hit the high points. Add a drop of GAFA Burnt Sienna to the mix and highlight some more. Keep adding and highlighting. Add a little P3 Moldy Ochre for the highest edge. Then wash entire head in GW Red Ink. Then GW Devlan Mud. Then reclaim the burnt sienna/ochre hightlights on the upper light-hitting edges.
*Using a two-brush wet blending approach, highlight the upper areas of the cloak with straight RMS Deep Ocean, pulling the color down into the darker areas. After that dries, do the same on a smaller area with a 5:1 mix of RMS Deep Ocean and RMS Leather White. Proceed to a 5:2 mix. Then a 1:1 mix for the extreme edges. Then, to smooth it all out, wash the entire cloak with P3 Turquoise Ink and water in very thin layers.
*Reclaim the skin by using the original color. After that dries, begin highlighting with a 5:1 mix of the original color base and RMS Creamy Ivory. Proceed to a 5:2 mix, on smaller areas. That should be enough, but a 1:1 mix wouldn't hurt for extreme highlights. She's gonna be pale, folks. Use a bit of GW Devlan Mud to smooth transitions and reclaim any over-highlighted areas.


Detailing
*Paint the little curls on her cheeks with straight GAFA Burnt Sienna. Paint her lips and nails with a 1:2 mix of VMC Black Red and VMC Brown Rose. Highlight the lower lip with straight VMC Brown Rose.
*Paint the eyes standard. Black, then white, then black.
*Paint the hair "trap" with VMC Bronze, then a layer of 1:1 VMC Bronze and RMS Honed Steel.
*Create a glaze with 2:1:5 of VMC Black Red, VMC Brown Rose, and VGC Glaze Medium. Carefully paint this onto the upper eye lid, up to where the eyebrow will be. Use a 2:1 mix of VGC Charred Brown and GAFA Burnt Sienna and carefully trace the model's brow ridges.
*Basecoat all the stones hanging from her wrists and across her legs with GW Foundation Charadon Granite.

Basing
*Standard Circle basing scheme.

Total time: ~12 hrs

Swamp Gobs Begin!

Ok... documentation time. These little buggers will serve as a template for my Circle Orboros warrior models. As of the base coat, it looks really good together.

Base Coat
Start with a base of VMC Green Ochre on the skins. Shirts, pants, and handkerchief are a combination of VMC Black Grey and RMS Deep Ocean, alternating which colors are where on each model (e.g. pants and handkercheif are blue on one model, black-grey on the other). Cover the leggings, gloves, and hat in a coat of VMC London Grey. Leather bags and straps are a 50/50 blend of VGC Beasty Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (to cut the red tone). Woods on the bellows pump is a 50/50 mix of VGC Charred Brown and RMS Dark Shadow (again to cut the red tone). Cover the tubes and pipes, and the inside of the tank, in VMC Oily Steel. Coat the nozzles and trim in VMC Brass.

Shading
Skins get a wash of the original color mixed with a touch of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. The clothing is left alone; it's dark enough and gets highlighting only. The leggings, gloves, and hat get a wash of the original color mixed with VMC Black Grey. Leathers and wood get washed in a mix of GAFA Raw Umber, VMC Matte Medium, and water. The silver metals get a wash of GAFA Payne's Grey and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, following with a deep recess wash of P3 Armor Wash. The brass metals get a wash of GAFA Raw Umber and VMC Matte Medium. After it dries, follow with a deep recess wash of with a touch of P3 Armor Wash.

Highlighting
First highlight is to clean up areas of spillage and error from the washes, and do general broad highlights, using the base coat colors. Further highlights were:
Gloves - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blues - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a 50/50 mix.
Blacks - base coat mixed with RMS Leather White, progress up to a deep grey.
Wood - base coat mixed with a touch of VGC Bonewhite.
Metals - base coat mixed with VMC Silver, especially on the bronze areas, allow original color to show.
Skin - base coat mixed with RMS Creamy Ivory. Lips, chin, nose, ears, elbows and ankles use the same mix but with added in VMC Beige Red. This added a lot of warmth and character to the models.

Detailing
Eyes - RMS Sunlight Yellow
Teeth & nails - RMS Creamy Ivory
Clean up any untidy spots, errors, what not.
Add black/brown lining between areas that seem a little indistinct.

Basing
As per my Circle Orboros standard basing technique. I've found painting the lip of the base black at some point during painting - this time during highlighting - helped provide a solid base and covered the white between the lip and the flat inner portion nicely.

Well, I promised pictures... I didn't promise they'd be good though. :-/

Total time: ~10 hours

Well, you wonder why I always dress in black...

Well, here's another one of those "scheme posts". If you recall, here's my plan for my current factions.

1. Summer's Trial (Cygnar) - Classic blues/brass w/ summer mix bases. Some whites, bronzes, golds, silvers. Basic classic studio scheme.
   
2. Spring's Malice (Circle Orboros) - Dark/bronzes w/ turquoise glow & slushy bases. Very dark grays & greens. Some deep wine reds for cloaks.
   
3. Winter's Wrath (Trollbloods) - Cooler classic blues/gold w/ snowy bases and a lot of yellow grasses. Look at Masonic tartans.
   

But today, I was inspired by my favorite Man in Black to have my Mercs really look the part. They'll be a black & purple version of my Cygnar, with lots of dark metallics, and more yellows on the grassy bases. I think this will mesh well with the existing forces, either Cygnar or Cryx. Besides, Ashlynn certainly would wear black in mourning for her fallen kingdom.

1. Autumn's Vengeance (Highborn Covenant) - Blacks, purples, oranges/gold w/ autumn bases. Coherent with Cygnar. A black Cygnar.

Maybe I'll start with Rhupert, to try and get the scheme down.