The Ravagers Begin

I will soon tackle my first unit for Hordes - my Tharn Ravagers plus the Shaman. I'm debating laying Kromac's skin tone at the same time, at very least, but we'll see. But the scheme I intend to use is as follows:

1. Skin Tones - pale and unsavory will be the trick. I'm considering a basecoat of 50/50 RMS Tanned Flesh and RMS Grey Liner. Wash with a mix of the basecoat plus a little RMS Brown Liner. Highlight back up with base coat + adding more Tanned Flesh at each level. Eventually add RMS Linen White for the final layers. Eyes - consider WarpWolf eyes - dead black eyes with a white pip in the middle. Mouth/teeth - same as WarpWolf.
2. Clothing layers - P3 Thamar Black, highlighted up with VMC Black Grey, final highlights mix in a little P3 Trollblood Highlight. Smaller cloth layers - consider a complimentary color - e.g. P3 Coal Black/VMC Cork Brown mix like the WarpWolf skin.
   
3. Weapons - VMC Hammered Copper base with progressive highlights of VMC Hammered Copper + VGC Oiled Steel to pure VGC Oiled Steel. Highlight with VGC Oiled Steel + RMS Honed Steel. Wash with watered down layers of Black Ghost Wash or P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with RMS Honed Steel.
4. Leathers – GW Scorched Brown washed with P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with GW Scorched Brown. Fine highlights with GW Snakebite Leather or Bestial Brown.
5. Dead trophies - decide as I go, but some will use VGC Dead Flesh instead of Tanned Flesh, but use the same method for the skin tones.
6. Turquoise - any crystals or runes should be treated like the crystal from the WoldWatcher. Base in GW Turqoiuse, darken upper area by mixing in Blue Ghost wash, lighten the lower area with P3 Morrow White. Dot of pure P3 Morrow White opposite the lower highlight.
   

Hopefully this works out and looks good. Nice thing is, I can always change my mind along the way. Neat huh?

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Now playing: "The Distance" by Cake

WoldWatcher frustration

Well, I tried and failed to use my standard stone wash. I obsessed over the wood and ropes. I screwed up the stone. I worked and worked.

Finally, I gave up. Using VMC Black Grey, P3 Ironhull Grey, P3 Cryx Bane Base, and P3 Cryx Bane Highlight - and a bunch of transport foam left-overs - I sponge painted him. He looks okay. I'm just happy he's done. And he's very dark now; matching my scheme nicely. I think I'll paint one of my WoldWardens to match him, and the other one to match my Shifting Stones. So I'll have straight gray and splotchy gray constructs. Also, I think splotchy will go with turquoise, and a truer blue with truer gray.

For the record, the wood was GW Scorched Brown with a P3 Armor Wash/GW Scorched Brown wash, and then rehighlighted. The ropes were then picked out with VGC Earth and a light VGC Khaki highlight here and there. The ropes were washed with GW Scorched Brown, too.

My pride and joy, however, is the turquoise gem on his forehead. I've never tried this method of making reflective jewels before, but it seemed straightforward enough. And voila, it worked!

The basing is done; the slush is drying on him now. He'll be ready for the camera tomorrow.

EDIT: I remember now why I like to start with gloss coat and then dull coat. The straight doll cote likes to react with the matte medium in my washes and turn white in areas with a lot of wash. When I use gloss coat first, this doesn't happen. I've spent an hour black-lining this PITA model. Hopefully, I've got it all now. So, from now on, gloss first, then dull coat.

As promised... pictures...




































































And a close up of the gem I'm so proud of...







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Now playing: "Heartbeats" by The Knife

Pix of Recent Work

Because Blogger's giving me a little gruff, here are some recent pictures, in order, without out much ado. I know the pics aren't the greatest. But any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Now that these are done, on to my WoldWatcher...

These are in my Spring's Darkness theme for Circle. (Considering thematic titles for my other factions: Summer's Triumph for Cygnar, Autumn's Ire for Cryx, and Winter's Hope for Trollbloods.)

Shifting Stones

















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Now playing: "Cuts You Up" by Peter Murphy

Circle Bases

To document the process of basing my Circle models, here goes... Make sure you allow plenty of drying time between each stage.

1. Paint inside of base with VGC Charred Brown.
2. Using 50/50 PVA glue to water to glue my ballast/sand mix into place.
3. Wash the base with VGC Charred Brown/P3 Armor Wash/water.
4. Clean up black border on base; paint front arc markings as desired.
5. Using above glue mix, glue GF9 Winter/green static grass mix into place.
6. Using above glue mix, glue Woodland Scenics Green Blend into place.
7. Mix 50/50 Slush/Snow mix with some PVA and mixing medium. 
8. Add to base realistically; next to logs, etc. - water on the brush helps positioning
9. Dry brush a little P3 Morrow White over the snow/slush.
10. Gloss coat. Dry. Dull coat. Dry. Second light dull coat. Dry.
11. Lightly layer on VGC Gloss Varnish over the snow/slush.

Voila! It's a little labor intensive and kinda messy, but it looks very much like a wet forest floor going through the spring thaw.

EDIT: 9/13/08; 2/7/09
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Now playing: "First and Last and Always" by Sisters of Mercy

WarpWolf Beginning to End

For posterity, I've decided to document the painting process on my WarpWolf. I learned a thing or two in doing this model, too, which means I need this info handy for later. This is presented in roughly the order it was done. Note the heavy use of P3 Armor Wash - I actually did a lot of that all at once when more of the model was actually covered. This is great stuff!

• Skin – P3 Coal Black with progressive highlights of P3 Coal Black + VMC Cork Brown. Wash with P3 Armor Wash.
• Fur – Progressive shades of grey, beginning with P3 Ironhull Grey, adding in layers of VGC Cold Grey. Wash with Black Ghost Wash as needed. A little RMS Honed Steel looks nice here and there, too.
  
• Eyes – black in with P3 Thamar Black and use one dot of P3 Morrow White for the pupil on each eye.
• Armor – VMC Hammered Copper base with progressive highlights of VMC Hammered Copper + VGC Oiled Steel to pure VGC Oiled Steel. Highlight with VGC Oiled Steel + RMS Honed Steel. Wash with watered down layers of Black Ghost Wash or P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with RMS Honed Steel.
• Inside of Mouth and Tongue – coat everything with VGC Dark Fleshtone. Then layer on a mixture of VGC Dark Fleshtone and VMC Beige Red. Wash the roof of the mouth in Black Ghost Wash. P3 Thamar Black to clean up the borders/black line between tongue and teeth.
• Spikes and Teeth – Dry brush successive layers of GW Snakebite Leather, VGC Bonewhite, and RMS Linen White. Fine highlights with P3 Morrow White. Wash base of spikes with watered down GW Scorched Brown and then with P3 Armor Wash.
• Leather – GW Scorched Brown washed with P3 Armor Wash. Highlight with GW Scorched Brown. Fine highlights with GW Snakebite Leather or Bestial Brown.
• Claws – Black with fine line highlight down the curve of the claw with VMC Black Grey.
• Base - Cover entire inside of base with GW Scorched Brown.
• Rocks - Paint rocks with P3 Greatcoat Grey. Highlight by mixing in VGC Cold Grey.
• Log - Lightly paint entire fallen log with VMC US Army Field Drab. Wash length of the log with P3 Armor Wash; allow it to pool. Highlight with original color and some lines of GW Scorched Brown. Dry brush VGC Khaki and RMS Linen White in successive layers on the ends of the log. Black line between the bark and the bare wood at each end. It helps.
• Ballast - Add glue and ballast as needed. Wash ballast with a mix of P3 Armor Wash + GW Scorched Brown. Dry brush back up with VGC Earth or other suitable color for your scheme. Or leave dark, because it looks like moist/wet earth.
  
• Base - Re-paint the black outside of the base. Using thinned down watery P3 Thamar Black and a flat brush, pulling down instead of right to left, resulted in a very smooth finish on the base.
• Clear coat - Clear coat entire model. I use a thin layer of Testor's Gloss Coat followed by two layers of Test
  
• Static Grass - Add static grass sparingly. When dry, dry brush on some VGC Khaki into the grass. The effect should appear as if new growth is coming out from the dead grass.
• Slushy Snow - Mix 50/50 Slush mix with water. Add to base in areas that make sense, the shadows of the log or rocks, etc. This needs to dry a long time.When dry, dry brush on some P3 Morrow White to brighten it up.
• Gloss Varnish – Using VGC Gloss Varnish, add a little gloss to the snow, maybe the surrounding soil, and to the Warpwolf’s tongue/inside of mouth and a little to each eye.

Well, that's it. I'll post pictures later. On to the Shifting Stones and then the WoldWatcher.

UPDATE: Shifting Stones are done, too.

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Now playing: "Addiction" by Sister Machine Gun

Step It Up Challenge

FULLY-PRIMED '08 is complete!
ALL MODELS ARE 100% ASSEMBLED & PRIMED!

Taking a page out of the No Quarter's Studio Challenge and IMI's attempted Step It Up events - both essentially the same idea - I'm going to try this new and improved 350 pt Morvahna the Autumnblade list, and as I get it painted, add more to it, until I reach 1000pts (spoiler: I'm considering Baldur for 'lock #2, though if eKaya is out, she may take priority).

Morvahna the Autumnblade
[DONE] Warpwolf
[DONE] Woldwatcher
[DONE] Shifting Stones
Tharn Ravagers (4)
345/350

I chose Morvahna for a couple reasons. She's my favorite to play, given her little tricks and ins and outs, and I'm tired of hearing people say she's not competitive; I think the girl's got more to her than most people realize. First, every girl needs a Warpwolf, so I added him in. The Shifting Stones are just fun and already mostly painted. The Tharn are my go-to unit for Circle, especially Morvahna. Her Regrowth spell makes them so annoying. I'm concerned at fielding a min. unit, but I'll step them up to 500 soon enough. That said, I'm going to paint the entire unit plus UA at once for sake of uniformity. Finally, the Woldwatcher - he's probably my favorite light in the game, with the Pyre Troll taking a close second. I love his animus and he looks fun to paint.

I'll give myself a couple months to finish and play test this. Then I'll step it up to 500. I'll keep posting my progress and my game results here.

EDIT: It looks like I'm being taken up on my challenge to other locals. The goal now is to have this list painted up by June 28th. It won't help me for the Hardcore Tourney that day, but it's a motivation to Bowen, Stokes, and Monty Kev. Best get crackin'!

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Now playing: "Traversing the Portals of Reality" by Akira Yamaoka

Circle Orboros Color Scheme

First off, I'm 99% done with all my assembly and priming. All I need to do is finish up my Troll Long Riders. Four more to go and then they can all get the can. The primer can, that is.

Meanwhile, the title says it all. I'm trying to come up with a unifying color scheme for my Circle forces.

1. Light beasts - see Speed Painting Nephilim Soldier article in NQ#18
2. Dark beasts - P3 Thamar Black; h: P3 Coal Black & VMC Cork Brown.
3. Fur - Take the scheme for the skin and lighten it. Brush onto fur. (See Circle entry in Evolution)
   
4. Wolds/Shifting & Sentry stones - warm greys, blue runes
5. Armor - *see below
   
6. Human skin tones - normal warm tones (see Escalation for good tutorial)
   
7. Tharn skin tones - something paler, almost sickly or bluish; base 50/50 RMS Tanned Flesh and RMS Grey Liner, with progressively more flesh tone.
   
8. Clothing - VMC Black h: VMC Black Grey w/ Cryx Bane Highlight? mixed in.
9. Leathers - VMC German Uniform Brown, w: GW brown ink & P3 Thamar Black, h: Trollblood Highlight
   
10. Teeth and claws - GW Snakebite leather; h: VMC tan and VGC bone white

Looks like a good start. I'm sure I'll modify it as I go. I'm considering finishing the Warpwolf to fine tune the leathers and armor and then starting the Pureblood using the Speed Painting article from NQ#18. This shouldn't be so hard; I can make more progress without being so obsessive. Bases can be pretty standard, but with a mix of dead and green leaves + slushy snow!

Let's see if this actually pans out.

Ok, I painted more on the WarpWolf. *Armor findings.

• VMC Bronze + a little P3 Thamar Black
• Add in VGC Oiled Steel for highlights
• Add in RMS Honed Steel and dry brush
• Dry brush straight RMS Honed Steel
  
• Very watery wash of Black Ghost Wash
• Dry brush/highlight with RMS Honed Steel

The effect is like deep bronze with silvery highlights where the edges have been worn and buffed from use. Looks nice! I tried to fill in the recessed spaces with blue to tie in with my Wolds/Stones, but I hated it. Took it out. I like the effect I have, and it creates a more monotone look to the model. The only blue then will be the runes on the Wolds/Stones. Nice!

Accidental techniques are awesome! I've been trying to find a way to paint the inside of beasts' mouths realistically. I think I found an easy way that works.

• Coat inside with VGC Dark Fleshtone. Leave black areas between inside of teeth and tongue, etc.
• Add in a little VMC Beige Red and highlight/re-coat.
• Lightly wash top of mouth and edges of tongue with Black Ghost Wash.
• P3 Thamer Black to clean up the borders.
  

Voila! Instant cool! Wow, I'm on a roll... the teeth are looking good too, with just GW Snakebite Leather dry brushed on.

Go, me!

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Now playing: "Intergalactic" by Beastie Boys